Archive for the ‘Milongas’ Category

Tourism keeps the milongas open

March 6, 2019

Jorge de Gouvea and I stay in touch by telephone since I no longer go to dance.  He told me that he went to Lujos in El Beso where the entrada is 200 pesos (about $5 for tourists).  Jorge enters free wherever he goes to dance.  Frankly, organizers should pay him to show up and dance with foreign women.  He dances with them anyway.  There are very few remaining gems like Jorge in the milongas.

Jorge said that the foreigners are the ones keeping the milongas open in Buenos Aires.  That’s the truth.  He heard there were 155 at Lujos, 96 of whom were foreigners.  They outnumber the locals at some milongas, and the milongas can’t survive without them.

I remember when the tourist season was November through February many years ago.  Now the tourism is no longer limited to one season, which helps the milongas.


That was quick

February 15, 2019

I saw a sign on the street today announcing the opening of Smart Fit Congreso on Bartlome Mitre 1759, so I went to check it out for myself.  I wrote about the demolition of Nuevo Salon La Argentina in December, and its conversion to a gymnasium.

Smart Fit, a Brazilian company, opened its first site in Argentina on February 9th, two blocks from the national congress.  What was once a spacious dance salon with stage was quickly turned into a modern fitness facility with wall-to-wall machines.  The place is open from six in the morning until eleven at night.  I noticed only a handful of people on the premises today at 7:00.  Membership is $800AP per month.

My next investigation will be Club Gricel on La Rioja.  Yes, it is another milonga venue that has permanently closed its doors, and all the milonga organizers found new places.  I’d like to know what plans Hector Chidichimo has for the place.  Stay tuned.

Members of the family

January 19, 2019

I was out grocery shopping this afternoon.  While on my way back home, I saw Olga and Mario Cozza walking in the opposite direction.  I haven’t seen Olga for years.  She stopped working in the coat room at Lo de Celia because of health problems.  Mario continued a bit longer, but finally retired.  I was so happy to see them.  Anyone who was a regular at Celia’s milongas knew them.  They were the ones who greeted everyone at the door, Mario collected the entradas, and Olga took care of coats.  They are such a dear couple who were always ready with a greeting and a smile for everyone.  They live about five blocks from Celia’s.  I told them I’ve stopped dancing and that other members of the family tell me they are not dancing anymore either.  We all felt like one big happy family at Celia’s.

Retiring from the milonga

December 31, 2018

I often meet people on the street that I know from the tango community.  I’m finding that I’m not the only one who has retired from the milonga.

Carlos and Lila live two blocks from me.  They were passing by one day recently on their way to the vet with their dog.  I asked how things are at Lo de Celia.  Carlos said they haven’t danced all year and don’t plan on returning.  I saw them every Sunday at Lo de Celia.

I was out walking along Av. Callao on Saturday when I saw a familiar face.  She was sitting on a bench with her dog.  I asked, don’t I know you from Lo de Celia?  Susana recognized me and remembered my name.  I asked if she was still dancing at Lo de Celia.  She replied, I haven’t danced all year.  Lo de Celia isn’t the same without Celia.  It was like family then.  Things have changed.  So many feel the same way.

The same day I saw Eduardo on the street.  He lives a block from me.  He, too, said he no longer dances at Lo de Celia.  He had his reserved seat at the front table near the bar.

Celia was the glue that kept her milonga family together.  She worked hard to build and keep the milonga going for many years.  The people who took over her business have no idea what it takes to run a milonga, so organizers are in charge.  Jonatan Rojas has Wednesday and Sunday; Alberto and Edit have Friday, Adriana has Saturday, and Bibiana Ahmad opens on Monday, January 7.

Ringing in the new year

December 29, 2018

Holidays are a family occasion, when so many milongas close.  A friend told me about one milonga venue that is open for those who want to dance and party with friends on New Year’s Eve — Obelisco Tango.  The announcement says: You’re invited to celebrate something different for New Year’s Eve.  Reserve your space with your advance payment.  Bring your own dinner.  The only condition is that you buy your drinks from us.  Air-conditioned venue.  The admission is only 300 pesos!  Buying five or more admissions for a 20% discount.

Foreigners who are in Buenos Aires for the holidays may choose this option on Monday night.  There will be excellent music provided by Pier Aldo from Italy, that is, if you can hear it.  There won’t be any milongueros viejos because they’ll be at be at home with family.  There will be groups of friends dancing together.  Single women expecting a regular milonga environment will be disappointed.  It’s a party into the wee hours of the morning.  Trying to find a taxi to take you home could be a challenge.


A tango landmark has bitten the dust

December 27, 2018

I was out for an evening walk with no destination or route in mind. When I found myself close to the site of El Arranque (2000-2017), I thought it was a perfect time to check on the status of the building Nuevo Salon La Argentina.  I walked by it and had to take a step back.  The entire entrance had been boarded up, but I peeked inside just as workers were finishing for the day.  My jaw dropped.  The interior of the enormous dance salon with bar and stage had been completely gutted in one month.  There was nothing left except the steel support beams and roof.  The owners had a For Rent sign on the building in early 2017, but who could afford to rent the dance hall.  Nobody.  However, someone bought it.  Construction began on what will be a gymnasium.  There is a building permit displayed indicating that the new owner is Asian and lives in my neighborhood.

Just what the city needed — one less dance venue and one more gymnasium.  I remember many wonderful tandas at El Arranque with Alito, Hector, Osvaldo, Roberto and many others.  Maybe the plans include a dance studio?

This was the last night of dancing at El Arranque.

Before and after photos of Nuevo Salon La Argentina with a for rent sign on the building in 2017 and how it is today.

Homogenized and prepackaged tango

July 26, 2018

Today the dancing is all so homogenized and prepackaged for exhibition. You don’t see social dancers wearing dresses with high slits, but that’s standard for exhibition couples today. You don’t see social dancers standing six feet apart to begin a dance, but that’s how “salon” is marketed today. Most of what is done in today’s exhibitions is a far cry from actual social dancing in the milongas of BsAs. While the champions are doing their perfect choreographies, social tango is falling by the wayside. When the masses no longer dance socially, it will be the death of tango. Dance floors aren’t big enough for all the egos that want attention.


Originally posted to Dance Forum, Jan. 17, 2014

Keeping up with milonga changes

January 26, 2018

Twenty years ago, we consulted the one bi-monthly guide for the milonga schedule:  B.A. Tango – Buenos Aires Tango.  Tito Palumbo  discontinued publication in 2016 and changed to social media.  That’s the best and only way to keep up with the constant changes.

For example, I planned to meet two visitors at my regular place on Wednesday.  Then I learned that El Maipu wasn’t scheduled in Obelisco Tango as usual at 18 hs; it was temporarily relocated to La Nacional at 20 hs. I cancelled our plans.  If I hadn’t checked their page on Facebook, I wouldn’t have known.  The other source is

And then Milonga de Los Consagrados in Centro Region Leonesa was mysteriously cancelled a few weeks ago.  The club’s board may have decided not to rent the salon out for milongas; the Friday milonga moved to La Nacional.  Los Consagrados also relocated to La Nacional one week and then to Casa de Galicia. Both places seat fewer than the 350 capacity at Salon Leonesa.  Tomorrow it’s scheduled in La Nacional, where there was a problem with the air-conditioning a couple of weeks ago.

I feel sorry for all the dancers who don’t have access to the internet.  They show up at their regular milonga, many after an hour of travel by bus, only to find the doors closed.

This week is the craziest month ever in terms of venue changes.  I’ve been on FB for a little more than a year.  I relied on Hoy-Milonga for the schedule, but didn’t always bother to check it before walking out the door.  Power outages are common during the summer months.

Tonight, Milonga de Buenos Aires, usually held in Obelisco Tango is taking place in Lo de Celia, a half a block away.  Repairs and painting are being done in Obelisco Tango (which I hope include the ladies room).  Obelisco seats 350, and Lo de Celia 150.  That means seven organizers scramble to find another place so they don’t have to cancel their milongas and lose money and patrons.  The entrance door was just painted.

The milonga organizers are not only fighting with the city government to stay alive, they have to deal with situations beyond their control to stay open.  It’s not easy running a milonga these days in Buenos Aires.

Do yourself a favor when visiting the milongas: always check the milonga’s Facebook page and for confirmation it will be open when you arrive at the door.

Milonga shuffling

January 22, 2018

Barajando is the perfect name for the newest milonga in Buenos Aires.  I think it’s about time Jonatan Rojas organized a milonga.  He’s a familiar face in the milongas and a fine dancer.  There’s no better venue for Jony to start than where he was a waiter for so many years.

Barajando means shuffling a deck of cards.   The tango Barajando was recorded by Juan D’Arienzo with Alberto Echague.

Jony is the right person to revive Sundays at the corner of Humberto Primo and Entre Rios.  He’s had a full house so far and already has plans for a Wednesday milonga.  When an organizer knows how to take care of the dancers, they come.  He’s worked in the salon almost since Celia’s opening, so it’s only natural for him to hold his first milonga there.

I wish Jony much success as organizer.  He takes care of his customers.

What is a silent milonga?

January 20, 2018

There were silent milongas in Maui, Hawaii.  They are the idea of Murat Erdemsel

“We dance to the Music. Nobody speaks between tangos, tandas and around the dance floor.”

Here’s what Ingeborg Mussche wrote:

For more than a year now a friend and I have danced silently, no talking between songs, well 90% of the time. Yes, it was awkward at first and sometimes still feels a bit awkward, but now mostly it seems normal and more comfortable.

Tonight, for the first time I especially realized how lovely this. I became distinctly aware of relaxing into the music, our embrace, my/our breathing, and the enjoyment of our moving together and listening together. Also, the dance felt more relaxed and not rushed. My mind was not thinking what I might say between songs. I was just enjoying, just present in the moment. We chatted briefly afterwards and both felt it had been a lovelier tanda than we typically experience.

I hope many more have the opportunity to enjoy this during their tandas, but be aware it may take a long time before you realize that sensation. Will it happen again? I hope so.

Of course.  People don’t know what they’re missing without silence.  The music of a tanda continues for about 12 minutes.  The few seconds from the end of one tango to start of another doesn’t allow for conversation.  What is so important that it can’t wait until after the milonga?

I wrote about this topic here and here.