Street Smarts in BA
When two visitors told me how surprised they were when two thieves tried to snatch their cameras in broad daylight on Sunday in La Boca, I decided it was time to write a page about the various types of tourist scams that take place every day around the city. One has to be cautious at all times and in every neighborhood. The upper-class Recoleta is no safer than San Telmo.
Even porteños are not immune to a practiced scammer. Those who carry expensive backpacks, people standing too close to the curb, and women with open purses are prime targets. Never take out your wallet on the street and closely guard your purse under your arm. It’s worse if you are a tall, blue-eyed blond who manages to attract all the attention of con-artists.
Cell Phone Heist. It was a quiet Saturday at 5:00 in my neighborhood. I was waiting for a bus with a few others. One person was talking on his cell phone. In a matter of ten seconds, it was lifted from his hand from behind, and the thief made a clean get-away with his accomplice on a motor cycle. No one saw it coming. These operators prowl the streets looking for people using cell phones. They are easy targets. If you have to use your cell on the street, do so with your back against a wall. It doesn’t matter what kind of cell you use, they are worth something to the thieves and easy to sell.
The Famous Mustard Scam. You are walking downtown (probably along Florida) and your jacket is suddenly splattered with a stinky yellow substance. Two people come quickly to your rescue, or so it seems. Get away from them. One will try to lift your wallet while the other is busy helping you with the mess they caused. You’ll need to have your clothes dry-cleaned. You were probably talking loudly in English and might just have well worn a shirt: I’m a Tourist — rob me.
The Spillage. You’re sitting peacefully on the subte, listening to music on your MP3 player on the way downtown. Suddenly a middle-aged woman standing in front of you spills her yogurt drink all over you. Horrified at what she has caused, she tries to help clean up the mess while your attention is drawn away from your handbag that is being snatched by her co-conspirator. She tells you how sorry she is for that, but it was all planned. This scam is used by women on other women. Brave the mess and get away in a controlled area at the end of your ride. Grin and bear it while keeping a tight hold on your bag. At least you won’t lose your bag.
The Flirt. An attractive stranger makes eye contact with you and occasionally touches you, all while quickly and quietly relieving you of your personal effects.
The Motochorro. The thief whizzes by on a motorcycle or bike, snatching your bags right out of your hands. You have no chance of catching him. I heard the story from a foreigner who lost her new tango shoes this way.
The Tango. It takes two–one bangs into you while an accomplice robs you from behind. Be aware at all times of people around you.
The Fake Out. This is why buses are safer mode of transportation. You try to pay your fare with a 100 peso bill. The driver switches it for a fake one in the front seat and returns it to you as a fake or says he has no change and returns it to you. You didn’t see him switch your bill for the counterfeit. He earned 100 pesos for the ride. Don’t take a taxi unless you have the amount to pay in cash without needing change. A driver switched a brand-new ten peso bill for a two peso bill on me; I apologized and paid him with another bill. After leaving the taxi, I realized what he had done. It was an independent driver who engaged me in conversation and then pulled the scam.
Loop-de-loop. This is when taxi drivers take clueless foreigners on unofficial tours through the city to run up the fare. Know where you are going and the streets the taxi should take to get you there. Only use radio taxis and make a note of the cab number, company and phone number as you enter. It takes only a minute and may deter the driver from shenanigans. If they hear you conversing in English, that opens the door for the tour when you aren’t paying attention. Learn how to give directions and make sure the driver follows them. If a taxi driver tells you the fare is double because it’s a radio taxi, don’t believe him. He’s only trying to take advantage of you.
The amBush. This one happened to George W. Bush’s daughter in San Telmo while she was surrounded by Secret Service. Do not hang your purse on the back of a chair in restaurants or even put them on the floor under the table. Keep it on your lap when you can remain aware of it at all times.
Do you have the time? This is an excuse to see if you have a watch worth stealing. Keep walking as if you don’t understand the question. And please don’t wear your gold watch on the street! If you aren’t ready to part with expensive jewelry, by all means don’t pack it for your trip.
Frontpacks. It’s not unusual to see locals wearing their backpacks in front. That way they can keep track of the contents. Wearing it on your back is tempting. I know; I had my wallet with 15 pesos lifted from mine while I stopped to windowshop in the rain. Stupid! I had no money and had to walk home. Forget the fanny packs–they’ll cut them with knives to relieve you of their contents. I had a friend who went to a public restroom and was surrounded by teenagers; while distracting her, one was able to lift her credit card from the fanny pack on her waist. It was more of an inconvenience than anything. She had to wait days for a new one to be mailed to her.
Switcheroo. Be selective where you use your credit card. When the waiter returns your card covered with your copy of the bill, make certain that it is the same one you gave him. They have been known to pass expired cards.
Cargo lift. Those cargo pants which you thought would be so handy to carry your wallet and camera in the pockets make you a prime target for thieves who spot you in a flash on the subte. While you are talking loud in English, they are relieving you of your wallet on the crowded train. Keep silent with your hands on valuables.
Children on the streets. They are sent out along Avenida Florida to beg you to buy the medicine they need. It’s a scam to get you inside the pharmacy where a parent is waiting to rob you. Ignore them, as difficult as it is. The parents rob their children of a childhood, but you don’t have to be robbed by them. Ignore anyone who approaches you on the street.
Milongas. Take only the money you will need for the entrada (15-20), water (6), coat check (2), ladies’ room attendant (2) and taxi ride home. Empty your wallet of credit cards and carry a photocopy of your passport photo page for identification. Leave your purse on the table instead of on the floor where it can be secretly searched while you are dancing. You can use one of those purse hooks that attach to the table. A large purse is better than a small one, which could be more easily snatched while you are dancing. If you go with a friend, make it a rule that one of you stays at the table while the other one dances.
BE STREET SMART IN BUENOS AIRES. There are pedestrians everywhere, all the time. You have to be alert while you are on vacation. Don’t speak English loudly in the street or on subtes–this only attracts attention you don’t want.
June 28, 2009 at 8:00 am
All good points, I am sure many will be helped by them. Remember though these things happen in all big cities, especially to tourists. Be aware, be safe.
Just one you missed, it is not unusual for taxis to have dodgy meters, watch for them suddenly jumping ten pesos or more. If this happens tell the driver to you will only pay the normal fare or stop by a policeman and refuse to pay, they will not press it if they are cheating you.
June 28, 2009 at 1:57 pm
Bob,
Thanks for the additional tip on taxi meters. One also should notice that the meter has been started at the beginning of the ride as well so the driver won’t do his own high estimate for having forgotten it. It’s best to avoid them all together and use the bus and subway system, especially now that a card system is being implemented.
Buenos Aires has given me an education on being street smart even though I grew up in Chicago. My travels to other large US cities, as well as Paris, Rome, and Milan never necessitated the caution one has to use at all times in Buenos Aires. Every time I share this information with tourists, they seem to be hearing these tips for the first time though many are seasoned travelers. I will continue to share what I know so visitors are informed and prepared.
Janis