Archive for February, 2009

Clubes de barrio

February 28, 2009

This is the first in a series about the clubes de barrio.  They were built to provide a place for cultural, social, and sports activities in the neighborhoods, including tango dances on the weekend. 

club-pinocho-villa-urquiza

 

Club Social y Deportivo Pinocho – Manuela Pedraza 5139 – Villa Urquiza

pinocho-couple

Sandra Cameron Studio, NYC (Nov 1997)

I went to Club Pinocho in March 1996, during my first visit to Buenos Aires.  Carlos Copello, who performed with Alicia Monti in Una noche de tango,  recommended this club de barrio to our group.  It was a long taxi ride from our hotel.  None of us danced with any of the locals since it was a Saturday night attended by couples.  I remembered seeing this couple at Club Pinocho, and a year later Miguel Zotto hired them to tour with his show Una noche de tango in New York City.  Alfredo and Nora Leguizamón along with El Pibe Palermo and his partner Norma never imagined in their wildest dreams they would be dancing on stage in the Big Apple.  The show was named ”best dance show” in 1998 by Clarin.

 

  

club-atletico-atlanta-villa-crespo

Club Atlético Atlanta  – Humboldt 374 in Villa Crespo

This is the club where Maria Nieves went at the age of 12 to watch the dancing with her sister Naty.  Two years later she started learning to dance with the boys at the club.  She eventually met Juan Carlos Copes, and the rest is history.  They brought tango to New York City in the 1950s, where they struggled to get any work they could as dancers.  Years later, they traveled the world with the show Tango Argentino, which premiered in Paris in 1983.

 

club-pedro-echague-parque-avellanedaClub Cultural y Deportivo Pedro Echagüe – Portela 836 in Parque Avellaneda

The club has been hosting a peña de tango every Saturday night since 1974.  It’s not a milonga since singles are not allowed.  Couples have dinner and then dance tango and salsa.  It is one of my favorite places to go with a partner.

This is the club where Miguel Angel Balbi, Ernesto Delgado, and Hector Delgado took their wives for dinner and dancing on Saturday nights.

Circulo Apolo Machain - Saavedra

 

Círculo Apolo Machain – Machain 3517 – Saavedra

Founded March 15, 1936 – Dances held on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Elba Celia Biscay

February 25, 2009

February 26, 1941 –

elba-celia-biscayI have admired Elba’s dancing for the past ten years in the milongas.  She learned to dance as a teenager in a neighborhood club.  Elba married and raised a family.  This photo shows her as a redhead, but she is more often a blond. 

Elba was the only milonguera interviewed for the television series Codigos de Milongas  on Solo Tango.  In the July 8, 2006 broadcast, Elba talked about experiences in her youth and how much things have changed today.  Women never wore pants to dance, but that’s her normal attire these days.  Her advice to women is to wear colored clothing rather than all black to tell everyone “estoy aqui” (Here I am).  In her early dancing days, she went to Confiteria Sans Souci and Club Monte Carlo, both on Avenida Corrientes.  Her best advice is “You have to like tango before you learn to dance it.” 

Elba competed in the finals of the III Campeonato Mundial de Tango (August 2005) with Osvaldo Centeno.  In 2006 she and Antonio Yuffré placed tenth in Milonga and sixth in Tango of the V Campeonato Metropolitano de Baile de Tango and then fifth in the Senior Tango division of the VI Campeonato Metropolitano de Baile de Tango in 2008.

Elba has been dancing in Milonguisimo with Alberto Dassieu and other partners in Oscar Hector Malagrino’s show in Confiteria Ideal.

Roberto Alvarez

February 20, 2009

February 20, 1933 –

Roberto and Mary

Roberto and Mary

Roberto is called El chueco because he is bow-legged.  He has been the M.C. at the milonga El Arranque of Juan Carlos Falce in Nuevo Salon La Argentina for many years. When I didn’t see him there a few months ago, I asked about him.  I decided to call him at home to find out how he was.  He was fine, but he wasn’t at the milonga because he was taking care of Mary.  She told me they have been together for 25 years when we spoke in October 2008.  Roberto has worked as a handyman doing general repairs and electrical work.  I danced with him years ago when I went regularly to El Arranque.  He usually shared a table with his friends Jorge Orellano and Julio Alé. 

This photograph is from the book A Los Amigos Milongueros (6th edition) by Angel Battelini published in 1998.  Angel (12/23/22 – 5/28/07) found inspiration for his poetry in the milongas and self-published them.  He gave me an autographed copy of his book in October 1998.  This is part of his poem about Roberto El Chueco and Mary (page 53):

El demuestra de salida…
que es milonguero de raza
en la milonga, se pasa
deja en el tango, la vida…
y eya, dulce, sencitiva
elegante pispireta
muestra qu para el gotán
le sobra clase y carpeta…

Julio, Victor, Roberto and Jorge in El Arranque

Julio, Victor, Roberto and Jorge in El Arranque

Carmencita Calderon

February 10, 2009

February 10, 1905 — October 31, 2005

Carmencita was the dance partner of the legendary Ovidio José Bianquet, better known as ”El Cachafaz” (February 14, 1885 — February 7, 1942) for ten years.   She was nothing short of amazing.

Practicas

February 6, 2009

There were no formal classes to learn tango in the 1950s.  Most families in Buenos Aires wouldn’t have been able to afford them anyway.  One learned to dance at family parties or with friends.  Boys wanted to learn to dance in the 1950s and went to neighborhood clubs to practice with friends. 

In the 1990s, there were a few who were teaching classes because tango was becoming popular once again in Buenos Aires, and tourists were traveling to learn.  Practicas were organized for those who had taken some classes but weren’t yet ready for the milonga.

Pepito Avellaneda organized a practica at Club General Belgrano in San Telmo.  The place is better known by its address–Cochabamba 444.  Later on Olga Besio with Gustavo Naveira and Mingo Pugliese with his wife Esther held practicas there as well.  There are practicas held there today.

Practica at Cochabamba 444 (1997)

Practica at Cochabamba 444 (1997)

During my March 1997 visit, I went regularly to the practica of maestro Raul Bravo in a restaurant (Av. Entre Rios 637) known as Salon Maragata to tango dancers.  He had two assistants Jose Fernandez and Ricardo Gallo.  Bravo would demonstrate a sequence for us to practice that night.  In those days, the practicas were mostly Argentines with only a few foreigners.  We practiced the sequence and rotated partners for an hour or so.  Afterwards, everyone had dinner and socialized.

Salon Maragata on Entre Rios near Mexico (March 1997)

Salon Maragata on Entre Rios near Mexico (March 1997)

salon-maragata4
Dinner and socializing after the practica at Salon Maragata

Dinner and socializing after the practica at Salon Maragata

Marina and I took turns leading at the practica

Marina and I took turns leading at the practica

Maragata was a neighborhood restaurant with a dance floor.  When I realized several years ago that it’s in my neighborhood, I took a peek inside only to discover that it had been converted into a pool hall.  It was a place I remember from my second visit to Buenos Aires when I danced regularly with Ricardo Gallo, who now lives and teaches tango in Italy.

Mi Buenos Aires Querido

February 3, 2009

Today is the tenth anniversary of my arrival to live in Buenos Aires. I was enrolled in a continuing education course I call ”Milonga Codes and Customs” with no materials for study.  Everything was either observed or shared by milongueros.  I want to share a few things I learned.

One’s tango dancing improves in the milongas.
Attending tango classes hasn’t really helped my dancing when I think about it. What has helped me the most is going to dance, having to adjust to every partner’s style and improvising in the moment.

A man who comes to the table doesn’t know how to dance.
I learned this lesson the hard way with lots of awful tandas because I wanted to dance. It took time to be able to avoid responding to those who approach the table. I would rather sit and enjoy the music than suffer through a tanda. 

The tango embrace of an Argentine is why women return to Buenos Aires.
Tango is an embrace in Buenos Aires. Argentine men love tango and women. They aren’t shy about embracing women. Foreign women find the embrace they have dreamed of. The trip is worth it for this alone.

Each tango orchestra has a unique style just like every milonguero.
It took years for this revelation even though I am a trained musician. When it finally dawned on me, I relied on my musically trained ear to help me identify the orchestra before I selected a potential partner for each tanda. 

The organizer sets the tone of each milonga.
Not all milongas are alike. Knowing the organizer and deejay gives you a pretty good idea about a milonga. Then when you finally get comfortable going regularly to your favorite milongas, things will probably change.

There are very few men who dance tango very well.
Visualize a pyramid. The masses are at the bottom, but only a few preserver and achieve the summit. That’s the way it is in every endeavor in life. We may not be the best dancers in the world, but we can always dance our best. That’s enough.  We dance our best with those who dance well.

Respect the tradition of the cabeceo.
The cabeceo (movement of the head) has been used in Buenos Aires for decades to invite a woman to dance. It’s a test for learning patience. We should respect the tradition along with the rest of the milonga codes.

Music is why we dance.
It can inspire us. It can transport us. We need to connect with it in order to express it. Then we understand why tango isn’t just a dance, but it’s a feeling that is danced. We have to know the music well to dance well. There is nothing quite like tango.

The milongueros are a vanishing species.
There aren’t many of them left. There will never be another generation like them. They are the self-taught dancers who learned from their youth and lived for the nights of tango along Corrientes. They dance well or not at all. They taught me what it means to dance tango.

Golden Age of the Milongas

February 1, 2009

The following text was transcribed from my conversation with Miguel Angel Balbi in 2000 on the Golden Age of Tango (1938-46) and the Golden Age of the Milongas (1946-60).               

Miguel Angel was born November 29, 1937, in Buenos Aires and grew up in the barrio of Almagro on Avenida Belgrano in a conventillo with his family. He learned to sing ten tangos by the time he was six years old with the help of his parents and his Uncle Carlos (born 1906; singer, guitarist, and milonguero). From the age of 11 he danced at family parties that included tango, milonga, vals, paso dobles and foxtrots. He danced with girls that his uncle brought to family parties. On November 29, 1951, his uncle took him to a downtown confiteria for his 14th birthday. During the next year he was dancing well enough to go to Club Oeste, Salon Agusteo, Salon Italia Unita, Salon Centro Region Leonesa and Club Almagro where he watched the “milongueros” for the next year to learn from them and then create his own personal style. At 16 he was going regularly to dance in the milongas. At the age of 17, the milongueros told Miguel Angel that he was a milonguero. In 1956, he danced at Chantecler (a cabaret) where Carlos Di Sarli celebrated 25 years with his orchestra. He met Isabel Garcia at Club Monte Carlo, and they married in January 1962.

What was it really like during the Golden Age of Tango?
Early in the 1940s, there were dances with two orchestras, but not milongas. There were neighborhood clubs where people went to hear singers and orchestras. There were lots of people who just went to watch and many who were learning to dance. They danced to the orchestras of Francisco Canaro, Jorge Firpo, and Julio de Caro.

During the golden age of the milongas, the rhythm of the music changed, so the dancing changed as well. The orchestras had become so popular that all of them were recording. Milongueros danced to the recordings of Carlos Di Sarli, Ricardo Tanturi, Miguel Calo, Juan D’Arienzo, Anibal Troilo instead of live music.

Orchestras changed to a slower rhythm. After 1960, the music changed and the movements became more difficult so people stopped dancing. In 1980 people started learning to dance again because of the flood of tourists coming to Buenos Aires for tango. Tourists were ready to invest money in learning tango, so lots of people started teaching.

What occurred during the Golden Age of the Milongas?
The milongas had success because of the quality of the music. The disc jockeys were attentive to the music that the milongueros wanted for dancing. There is tango for the milonga, tango for dances, and tango for listening. The music of the milonga is very special. Let’s suppose Troilo recorded 100 tangos, there might be only 20 for the milonga. Many tangos had lyrics and little rhythm but featured the singer. Milongueros didn’t want to dance to music with singers; they wanted to dance to the rhythm of the orchestra. When a tango has a singer, the rhythm changes and the milonguero then needs to listen to the lyrics. There are few tangos with lyrics for milongueros where the singer is an instrument of the orchestra. Milongueros prefer dancing to instrumental music.

Did they announce each tango?
The tandas were announced in the milongas. The disc jockey would announce the recordings for the next tanda by giving the orchestra name, singer, and title of each tango. Vamos a bailar con… Each tanda had the music of one orchestra with the same rhythm. First there were two vocal tangos, followed by two instrumental tangos.

Were there breaks in the dancing? What happened during them?
Between each tanda there was a break of five minutes during which time people would rest, have a drink while soft music was played and no one danced. This is because people dressed elegantly. A man would have enough time to smoke a cigarette during the break. Men were always dressed in suits and ties, even during the hot summer nights when there was no air-conditioning. In the clubs, there were people standing and people sitting at tables, but in downtown, everyone was seated at tables. There were special clubs-Club Oeste on Alberdi and Club Almagro-with milongueros and milongueras. People went to learn from the milongueros.

The milonga was a ceremony; it was like a theater. There were many codes. The most important code of a milonguero is patience. He always danced well. Always wore shined shoes, a pressed suit with white shirt and tie. He knew the orchestras, singers, lyrics, and danced elegantly. When there might be an occasion when there were no good female dancers in the milonga, a milonguero would just watch the floor to see who danced well.

Would partners dance together the entire evening?
Yes, those who went together as a couple would dance only with each other. A milonguero would dance with a woman for only one tanda. The woman he like the best all night would be the one he would ask to dance during the last hour of the night. The last hour had music programmed with four boleros, four tangos, and four valses. Then during the last hour he might dance continuously with the same woman.

The milongueros went to the milongas where they could find the music of their favorite orchestra. In the 1950s, there was competition among the milongas. The milongueros wanted to hear different music each night. A milonga has to have a good floor and good music for success.

What was the tradition or protocol for asking a woman to dance?
The custom of asking a woman to dance has always been the same, whether in a club de barrio, confiteria, or milonga-movement of the head. And that movement is imperceptible to others in the room. Teachers should be teaching this in their classes so students are prepared for the milongas.

Would people wander from place to place to dance at night?
If a milonguero wanted to dance with a particular woman, he might go from place to place until he found her. He might ask her during the tanda where she goes to dance for the purpose of dancing with her again. Then when he found her, he would dance with others during the night and wait until the last tandas to dance with her. This gave him time to see if she was dancing with another before inviting her to dance. If one place seemed crowded, a milonguero would leave and go to another milonga.

Women always dressed impeccably. After two tandas of tango and swing, they retired to the restroom to fix their hair and makeup. There was much respect for women. No man would bother a woman by going to her table.

The word milonguero does not apply to everyone. It didn’t matter how far a woman lived, if he wanted to dance with her, he would travel to a club where she danced. A milonguero could wait an hour in a milonga before dancing. He may dance very little, but will always dance well.

Today, there are many milongas in Buenos Aires, but none of them are good. The milongas of today in Buenos Aires don’t play music for milongueros because the disc jockeys are very young and don’t know the tango repertoire. The same music is played week after week, milonga to milonga. There is no competition among the milongas because they all play the same music.